When I purchased my Brother Laser Printer HL-2170W, I was aware of the notorious premature “toner life end” problem. The printer has a sensor for the toner, it would stop printing when the toner is low. The problem is often times the printer stops working even when the toner is perfectly fine.

My printer stopped working when the page count is only about 650 pages. To get around this problem, there is a trick that you can do it by yourself. Here are the steps.

1. Follow the printer’s instructions to take out the toner.
2. There is a round hole to the right side of the toner. Use a strip of non-transparent tape to cover this hole. If you do not have non-transparent tape, you can tape a small piece of paper there instead.
   
3. Insert the toner back to the printer.

My Samsung laser printer stopped working after 3 years in service. In a rush to get a replacement printer, I picked up a Brother Wireless Laser Printer HL-2170W based upon various good online reviews. The selling point for me is the included WIFI interface. I could place it anywhere in my house without attaching it to a computer.

There are three ways to hook it up.  You can attach it to a computer using a USB cable, or you can attach it to a router using an Ethernet cable. The third way is to join the printer to the wireless network, and this is what I bought this printer for. The driver CD has a wizard to walk you through the steps to hook it up wirelessly. I picked the option to install the printer using an Ethernet cable temporarily. You insert the toner and drum kit assembly to the printer. Plug in the power cable and connect the printer to the router with an Ethernet cable. Insert the driver CD to a computer connected to the same network. The installation wizard searches the network for printers. Once it finds the printer, you can configure the printer to join your wireless network. During the second part of the installation, the wizard creates a port and installs the necessary driver for the printer. Everything went smoothly and the driver appeared to be installed.

After I disconnected the Ethernet cable, I could still access the web site hosted by the printer’s print server. The wireless setup for the printer is working. However, I cannot print to it via the printer created by the installation wizard earlier. I tried to installed the printer driver on several different computers and still I could not print from any of the computers I tried.

I investigated the problem and found that the printer entry in the Printers section of Control Panel does not have a correct port. The port created by the installation wizard is not an IP address, but a name. I suspected this is the problem. I created a new Standard TCP/IP Port which points to the wireless IP address of the printer and assigned the port to the printer entry. After the changes, I could print to it without any problems. I also configured my router to give my printer a static DHCP address to make sure the address does not change.

I worked on a Toshiba NB205 this week and I am very impressed with it. The model we got is a NB205-N310/BN. It has an Intel Atom N280 processor, 1GB of RAM and 160GB hard drive. It is Bluetooth enabled, so you do not have to buy additional adapter. One nice feature is the USB Sleep-and-Charge. You can charge any device that can be charged through the USB port even when the computer is in sleep mode(standby). This feature is available on higher end models of Toshiba laptops. It’s a pleasant surprise that they include it on a budget netbook.

I like the keyboard a lot. What’s good about it is that there are dedicated keys for arrows, Page Up and Page Down.

On the right side, we have two USB ports, a power connector and a security lock slot.

The indicators are on the front.

The SD card slot is on the front, too.

We have VGA, headphone, microphone, Ethernet and one more USB port on the left.

This shot shows the oversize 6 cell battery. I must admit, the battery does not look nice. However, I think most people will trade the look for the extra power provided by the bigger battery.

Now is time to show you how to replace the 1GB built-in RAM with a 2GB one. There is only one slot, so you have to take out the old one and replace it. You can use a  2GB PC2-5300 667MHz 200-pin SODIMM Memory. Before you begin, turn off the computer and remove the battery. There is only one screw to remove. I have marked its location in this photo. Once you remove the screw, Gently remove the cover. The cover is secured by two tabs around the mid section. You need to apply a bit of force to get it open.

Before you touch any components inside the computer, touch any metal in your surrounding to discharge statics on you or put on an anti-static wrist strap. Gently pull out the clips from the side of the memory. The memory would pop up. Remove it.

Insert the new memory into the slot at an angle. Note that there is a notch on the memory, make sure the orientation is alright. If you have problems inserting the memory, the orientation is probably wrong.

Push down the memory so it locks in place. The last step is just to put back the cover and screw.

The Windows 7 Beta on my MacBook was about to expire, so I reinstalled Vista on it. After the installation, I put in the Leopard DVD and installed the drivers. Initially, the drivers installation was not successful. I just downloaded the BootCamp 2.1 update from Apple and intalled it. All the drivers except the audio driver were installed.

I tried different methods to install the missing audio driver, but Vista cannot find the proper driver for it. My other MacBook (early 2008) uses Realtek driver, so I thought this uses the same driver. I downloaded the latest driver from Realtek and tried different versions and they all failed to install.

Finally, I looked up the VEN(DOR) ID for the device and found that it’s from SigmaTel! I installed the SigmaTel driver from the Leopard DVD and it started to work right away. I am not sure why the BootCamp drivers installation did not figure out the right driver the first time, but I learned that I’d better checking the VEN(DOR) ID next time I ran into the same problem.

Just in case you don’t know how to check the VEN ID. You can right click on a device in Device Manager and select Properties. Under the Details tab, select Hardware Ids and you can see the VEN ID and DEV ID.

Here is a screenshot of one example.

In this case, the VEN ID is 1106 and DEV ID is 3403. After you know the VEN ID, you can use the site like PCIDatabase.com to search for the company.

The Asus Eee PC 1008HA is a new netbook with N280 processor. The main selling point is the ultra-slim form factor. The computer looks stylish and it’s pretty light(2.43lb). However, due to the small case, both battery and RAM are NOT user serviceable.

I was trying to find service manual, but didn’t find the official manual. Luckily, there are some guides that covers on how to disassemble the machine.

• NetbookItalia (in Italian, English translation)
• Moblie01 (in Chinese, English translation)
• NotebookReview

The third one is basically just the English translation of the first two. The procedure is not for faint of heart. If you have not tried something like this before, I suggest you think twice about following the steps to disassemble your machine.

Here is a picture from NotebookReview about the location of the memory slot.

Asus is vague about what kind of memory is needed for 1008HA. I found the specification from Crucial.com, the memory you need is PC2-6400 laptop RAM .

I helped a user with his Acer Aspire One AOD150 to upgrade memory. The AOD150 comes with 1GB of memory and it has only one slot. Therefore, you cannot just add memory to it, you have to replace the old one. The memory you can use is DDRII 667 MHz. Here is a good one: OCZ 2 GB PC2-5400 667 MHz DDR2 . Follow the steps to install it.

1. Turn off the computer and remove the battery.
2. Turn the computer bottom side up and place it on a soft surface.
3. Use a screw driver to remove the one screw.
   
4. Now it’s the scary part. Gently remove the cover. The cover is secured by two tabs around the mid section. You need to apply a bit of force to get it open.
   
5. Before you touch any components inside the computer, touch any metal in your surrounding to discharge statics on you or put on an anti-static wrist strap. Gently pull out the clips from the side of the memory. The location of the clips is shown in the previous photo. The memory would pop up. Remove it.
   
6. Insert the new memory into the slot at an angle. Note that there is a notch on the memory, make sure the orientation is alright. If you have problems inserting the memory, the orientation is probably wrong. This is a photo for an ASUS 1000HE, the idea is the same.
   
7. Push down the memory so it locks in place.
8. Put back the cover and screw.

You have saved $50.00 by doing this yourself.

We have quite a few HP Color LaserJet 2605dn in my work place. These printers have 64 MB of memory by default. One user has complained about the performance. I think it’s probably a good time to upgrade the memory.

My first stop is the HP web site. It’s not hard to find the product page with accessories. When I first saw the price, I was shocked! The printer itself is about $250.00 on sale. The price for a 128 MB memory is $579.00! I don’t think I am going to pay that much just for 128 MB RAM.

Using the Google Shopping, I was able to identify an Ebay deal about the compatible RAM. How much is it? $14.00 with free shipping! The shipping is fast, too. I got it today and install it on the printer. The memory was recognized without any problems. For those who are interested in the deal. Here is the link. The HP part numbers for this RAM are C9121A, Q9121A, Q7709A.

Changing the memory is a snap, just locate the cover for it and pull it open. No tool is required.

I recently started another DIY project. Unlike my previous Core i7 storage server, this is a small form factor desktop. The main component is a Shuttle K48 barebone system which includes motherboard and power supply. Here are the parts:

• Shuttle Computer K48 Intel 945GC+ICH7 Chipset  Barebone System (Black)
• Intel BX80571E7400 Core 2 Duo E7400 Processor
• Crucial Technology CT2CP12864AA667 2GB 2 x 1GB DDR2 PC2-5300 Unbuffered Non-ECC 240-Pin DIMM Kit
• Western Digital Caviar Blue 250 GB Bulk/OEM Hard Drive 3.5 Inch, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM SATA II WD2500AAKS
• LG GH22LP20 Super Multi – Disk drive – IDE – internal – 5.25
• Masscool 8W553B1M3 – Processor cooler – ( Socket 775 )

Shuttle already has an excellent quick start guide with color photos. I’ll just tell you about my experience with it without doing a step-by-step guide again. The built quality of the system is solid and I am surprised to find the case is made of aluminum which is better at dissipating the heat.

When I first bought the parts, I didn’t buy a CPU cooler because the Core 2 Duo already comes with a stock CPU cooler. I first tried to install it without success. I just cannot get all four pins pushed in. I really hate the design of the push-pin for the stock Intel cooler. Finally, I decided to ditch the Intel CPU cooler and buy the one from Masscool. The new CPU cooler uses spring loaded screws to mount. You have to take the motherboard out to install the Masscool CPU cooler. Remember to take the power supply out first before doing so. Even with the extra time needed to take the motherboard out, I think this is a better choice than the aweful stock Intel cooler.

All parts except the Masscool CPU cooler.

Got everything assembled.

One note about the Masscool CPU cooler. The cooler has a 3 pin connector and K48 cannot adjust the speed of it. The fan always runs at full speed and it’s noticeable compared to the case fan. So, if you are concerned about the noise, you might want to pick a CPU cooler with a 4pin connector.

Our tape autoloader is about 3 years old now, which means the warranty is going to expire soon. In the three years that we own it, we have sent it back for repair twice already. I am afraid it might die any time soon. Just in case you are wondering about what tape autoloader we have, it’s a Sony AIT5 autoloader. We also had a Sony AIT3 autoloader before and that one was not reliable either.

Anyway, we want to switch to disk based backup because first, tape autoloader is just not reliable enough and second, we recently subscribed to online and off-site backup service. The local backup is not that critical any more. Disk based backup should be sufficient for us.

The idea is to build a fast machine with a big RAID within $1500.00. It’s not possible to buy a name brand computer with that amount of money, so I decided to build it myself.

Here are the parts. I select these parts with stellar reviews. Only the reviews for the hard drives are not that great, but no other companies has 1.5 GB drives.

• Intel Core i7 920 2.66GHz Processor
  This is the entry level Core i7 processor, but you can overclock it with proper hardware.
• ASUS P6T Intel X58 Motherboard
  A basic LGA1366 MB from Asus, overclockable.
• Antec Three Hundres Gaming Case
  A black and not-so-flashy case with two 3-speed fans.
• LG DVD Burner GH22NS30
• Corsair Power CMPSU-400CX 400w Power Supply
• Sapphire Radeon HD4830 512MB Graphic Card
  HD4830 is the best video card you can buy for under $100 now(03/2009).
• Vigor Monsoon III LT CPU Cooler
  A huge CPU cooler, necessary for overclocking.
• Corsair TR3×3G1600C8D Dominator 3GB 3 x 1 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 Memory Kit
  The P6T motherboard can use DDR3 2000MHz RAM, but those are too expensive. This is a step above the DDR3 1333 MHz RAM.
• Seagate 1.5TB SATA Hard Drive x 4

I took some photos while I assemble the machine. Here are the photos.

1. Take the case out of the box and lay it on a flat surface.
   
2. Gently push in the back panel and replace it with the back panel for P6T. The picture shows the back panel for P6T.
   
3. Release the load lever and remove the protective cap. Carefully insert the CPU and close the load lever. There are notches on the side of the CPU, make sure they match the ones on the socket.
   
4. Take the CPU cooler out of the box and install the brackets for LGA1366. Note that when you install the screws on the tip of the brackets, use counter-clockwise rotation to screw them in. Peel off the sticker.
   
5. Apply a bit of thermal paste and install the CPU cooler. Note the orientation, we want the air flows to the back of the board.
   
6. Turn the motherboard over and install the bracket and nuts. Turn the motherboard over and connect the fans to CPU_FAN connector on the motherboard.
   
7. Install the three RAM modules on the orange slots.
   
8. Before we install the motherboard onto the case, install the DVD burner and the hard drives first. I installed an additional hard drive as the system drive (not shown in the picture).
   
9. Install additional standoffs on the case to match the holes on the motherboard.
   
10. Install the motherboard onto the case. Note that the ATX power connector is hard to reach, you might want to connect it first before you install the motherboard.
    
11. Install the power supply.
    
12. Install the video card.
    
13. Connect all the cables. P6T includes a Q-Connector which can help you with the system panel connection, be sure to use it. One note about the cables is if you have problems figuring out the polarity. Look closely at the connectors, the positive is marked by a small triangle. Another note about the front panel connection, it’s labeled as AAFP on the motherboard. The connector for the case is labeled as HDA.
    
14. Connect the power cable and other peripherals and test it.
    
15. After testing OK, tidy up the cables and make sure they don’t obstruct air flow.

Now that I got everything assembled, my next project is to overclock the machine. Stay tuned.

I helped a user with his Eee PC 1000HE and the first thing I did is to replace the memory. The 1000HE comes with 1GB of memory and it has only one slot. Therefore, you cannot just add memory to it, you have to replace the old one. The memory I added is a OCZ 2 GB PC2-5400 667 MHz DDR2 memory. Here are the steps to install it.

1. Turn off the computer and remove the battery.
2. Turn the computer bottom side up and place it on a soft surface.
3. Use a screw driver to remove the two screws.
   
4. Now it’s the scary part. Gently remove the cover. The cover is secured by two tabs around the mid section. You need to apply a bit of force to get it open.
   
5. Before you touch any components inside the computer, touch any metal in your surrounding to discharge statics on you or put on an anti-static wrist strap. Gently pull out the clips from the side of the memory. The memory would pop up. Remove it.
   
6. Insert the new memory into the slot at an angle. Note that there is a notch on the memory, make sure the orientation is alright. If you have problems inserting the memory, the orientation is probably wrong.
   
7. Push down the memory so it locks in place.
8. Put back the cover and screws.

You have saved $50.00 by doing this yourself.